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Restaurants, cafés and bars in Essaouira ...
Essaouira has numerous characterful restaurants serving good, freshly cooked, food in interesting surroundings. You should find something to suit most tastes and budgets within 10 minutes walk of the apartment. Most of the restaurants are clean and service is generally excellent. As many of them are small and have weekly and annual closures it is best to book in advance if you are keen to try a particular place. Please note that most restaurants do not accept credit cards – even if they have a sign saying that they do! Apart from the outdoor cafés which line Place Moulay Hassan, and some of the more traditional or budget restaurants, most restaurants serve alcohol. Moroccan wines come in red, white, rose and 'gris' - a sort of dark rosé. The local ‘Mogador’ wines are among the best in Morocco, though they are relatively expensive and not often offered on wine lists.
We have compiled the list below from a number of sources, including word of mouth, the web, guide books and, most of all, personal experience. We haven't tried all of them yet but we are working it!
A summary of our recommendations and keys to symbols are at the end of the table. Click here for a copy of the table in printable form. All of our recommendations are marked on the map.
Click on photo to enlarge
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AFTASS
Modest café on Place Moulay Hassan serving the standard menu of French, Moroccan, Italian and seafood dishes.
Cost: Breakfast: 25 DH, One course: 10 – 45 DH, 3 courses 40 – 60 DH
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Newly renovated restaurant/pub/tapas bar just across the road from the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the medina - beneath La Petite Algue and next door to Casa Bella). You can eat in the main restaurant which has pale wooden furniture, stone arches and subdued lighting, at counters overlooking the sea or outside. Has live music at weekends. Address: 62 Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: +212 (0) 24 78 48 28 Website: www.aiguemarine.ma Cost: One course: 40 – 140 DH, tapas: 15 – 70 DH, 3 courses: 145 – 280 DH
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restaurantALI Basic eatery on first floor gallery overlooking Place Chrib Attay (the one with the tent). Serves omelettes (including Berber), salads, fish, tajines and couscous. Address: Place Chrib Attay (off Rue Laâlouj) Cost: One course: 10 – 30 DH, 3 courses: 35 – 155 DH
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Hearty portions of delicious Moroccan home cooking served in a cosy, candlelit room with a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Very good value set meals. Order in advance for the popular pastilla. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Booking advisable in the evening (usually has two sittings – 19:00 and 21:00). Address: 26 Rue Skala Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 68 19 Cost: 3 courses: 95 - 100 DH, Pastilla: 100 DH per person Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for value, cuisine, atmosphere, service), Time Out, Lonely Planet, Rough Guide
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les ARCADES
No-nonsense candlelit little place with low banquette seating from where you can watch locals promenading along the main street while you eat. Menu includes Moroccan dishes, fish, pizza, pasta and omelettes. Address: Avenue de l’Istiqlal Cost: Breakfast: 10 – 25 DH, One course: 15 – 65 DH, 3 courses: 60 – 110
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BAB LAACHOUR
Café/restaurant with roof terrace overlooking Place Moulay Hassan and the sea. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 66 70 Cost: One course: about 45 DH
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al BACHIR Open air cafc set slightly apart from the other cafés on Place Moulay Hassan. Popular with locals. Address: Place Moulay Hassan
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Suntrap by the beach. Good for lunch (panini, omelettes, crêpes, tajines, salads, pasta, grills) and watching watersports (equipment hire and lessons available next door). Food is only served at set meal times and alcohol is not available without food. Address: Boulevard d Mohammed V Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 40 76 Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH, One course: 25 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 120 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for lunch in the sun)
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Simple local drinking den attached to Chalet de la Plage. Locals tend to congregate inside whilst backpackers gather at sunset on the small terrace overlooking the beach. Open until 20:00. Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V (on the south side of Chalet de La Plage) Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for a beer at sunset), Time Out
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Courtyard restaurant with boho-chic décor, a huge fig tree and atmospheric music. A romantic spot for lunch (and nice and sheltered when its windy). Address: 113 Rue Mohamed al Qorry Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 35 61 Cost: One course: about 75 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for lunch on a sunny day)
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Berber restaurant serving a good range of tajines, couscous and pastilla as well as set menus. No alcohol but you can bring your own. Open every day. Address: 6 Rue Ibn Toumerte Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 67 12 Cost: One course: 45 - 75 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 135 Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good value Moroccan food)
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BEN MOSTAFA
Pavement café on Place Moulay Hassan. Serves pizza, pasta, seafood, Moroccan dishes, omelettes and salads. Address: 20 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: +212 (0) 13 11 70 20 Cost: Breakfast: 20 – 35 DH, One course: 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses 50 - 155 Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for breakfast and people-watching)
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Small French-run café in the peaceful former grain market. A huge selection of teas, infusions and coffees (including decaffeinated), interesting fruit and vegetable cocktails, snacks and icecream are produced in a tiny kiosk and served at tables outside in the square. Lunch is a daily-changing blackboard menu of light and tasty French dishes such as bruschetta with tapenade and goats cheese. Address: Place Marché aux Grains Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 59 68 Website: www.bonheurdesdames-essaouira.com Cost: Breakfast: 35 DH, One course: 45 - 50 DH, 3 courses: 120 – 155 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for a peaceful beverage or lunch in the sun)
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Friendly little English-run café serving Mexican-style light meals (including plenty of vegetarian options), jacket potatoes, burgers etc. and, in the afternoon, excellent home-made cakes. Also does take-aways. Open 11:00-20:00 every day except Monday. Closes in January. Address: 66 Rue Boutouil Tel: + 212 (0) 24 47 45 15 Cost: One course: 25 - 50 DH, 3 courses: 60 - 90 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for lunch, vegetarian food, home made cakes, meeting people) and Time Out
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Contemporary Italian/Moroccan restaurant just across the road from the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the medina – next door to La Petite Algue). Both the décor and the food are light, fresh and modern. Also has a few tables outside facing the beach. Open for coffee and meals 12.00 to 23.00 every day except Monday. Address: 60 Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: +212 (0) 61 47 55 70 Cost: Breakfast: 50 – 70 DH, One course: 55 - 160 DH, 3 courses: 165 - 360 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for modern Italian food)
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Large tapas bar in a prime location on Place Moulay Hassan. It is worth a visit just for the rather over-the-top interior décor which includes a wealth of Moroccan craftsmanship (zelliges, tadelakt, painted doors etc.) offset by modern furniture. Multilingual waiters serve full meals (Spanish/seafood), good tapas and drinks. You can also get drinks and tapas on the modern roof terrace (The Pink Garden) which has amazing views and occasional live music. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 00 212 (0) 24 78 31 05 Cost: Tapas: 15 – 160 DH, One course: 210 - 285 DH, 3 courses: 80 - 380 Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for drinks, tapas, the craftsmanship and the view from the terrace)
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CAVERNE ALI BABA Deceptively spacious restaurant (and hotel) at the end of an alley which doubles as a showroom for for the plate shop next door. Food is Moroccan, Italian, fish and omelettes. Address: 29 Avenue de l’Istiqal Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 53 54 Cost: One course, 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 155 DH
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CHALET DE LA PLAGE/CHEZ JEANNOT
Long established (1924) and beautifully situated restaurant with a shady terrace jutting out over the beach (which is floodlit at night). Specialises in seafood. Gets busy at lunchtime and seats on the terrace go quickly so it is best to book. Closed Sunday evening and Monday lunchtime. Wine list includes some local specialities. Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 59 72 Cost: One course: 100 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 135 - 250 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for the beautifully situated terrace) and Time Out
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On the medina side of Chalet de la Plage restaurant is an open terrace which, on calm days, is a good place for drinks. Also does a limited breakfast menu. Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 59 72 Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for breakfast by the beach or a beer at sunset)
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les CHANDELIERS
Popular restaurant opposite the museum serving standard French, Moroccan and Italian food. Has a lounge/bar upstairs. Address: 14 Rue Laâlouj Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 58 27 Cost: One course: about 95 DH Recommended by: Lonely Planet
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après CINQ
Chic restaurant and tea shop attached to the Madada Mogador Hotel. Warm stone arches, modern purple and pink décor with giant lampshades. French and Moroccan food. Sometimes has music. WiFi. Open from 12:00 to 24:00. Closed on Tuesdays. Address: 7 Rue Youssef El Fassi Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 33 49 Cost: One course: 60 - 140 DH, 3 courses: 170 - 280 DH Recommended by: Lonely Planet
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le COQUILLAGE/RESTAURANT DU PORT
Large restaurant with terrace overlooking the beach. Popular with coach parties. Address: Le Port d'Essaouira Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 66 55 Cost: One course: 60 – 230 DH 3 courses: 115 - 380 DH
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Trendy bar at the back of Le Mechouar restaurant. MTV, loud music and lighting effects. Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 58 28
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COTÉ PLAGE
Next to the beach opposite Sofitel, by which it is owned. Continental menu with some good seafood dishes or barbecue on Sundays. Glass panels protect the outside terrace from wind. Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 90 00 Cost: One course: 70 - 170 DH, 3 courses: 210 - 410 Recommended by: Time Out and Lonely Planet
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Cheerful little crêperie where you can eat at pine tables in the yellow interior or outside facing Place Chrib Attay (the one with the tent). Serves a good range of savoury and sweet crêpes and jugs of cider (but no other alcohol). Open 12:00 – 15:00 and 19:00 – 22:00 Address: Rue Laâlouj Tel: +212 (0) 24 78 30 96 Cost: Crêpes: 20 – 60 DH, ½ jug of cider (Brevage de pommes) 55 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for a simple lunch of crêpes and cider)
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dAR BABA First floor restaurant serving simple Italian food. Address: 2 Rue de Marrakech Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 68 09 Cost: One course: 35 DH, 3 courses: 105 – 165 DH
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French-run restaurant with a small intimate interior and two outside tables. Serves a simple menu of Moroccan and French specialities with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Daily specialities such as royal couscous with camel meat are advertised on a blackboard at the end of the road. Desserts might include lemon meringue pie or Moroccan pastries. Open 10 am to 10 pm every day except Saturday. Closes in January. Address: 8 bis Rue Houmman el Fatouki Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 31 58 Website: www.essaouira-ladecouverte.com Cost: One course: 10 – 70 DH, 3 courses: 55 – 115 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for a light lunch)
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DIABAT Café
Tiny brightly-painted ‘hippy’ café with tables overlooking the building site which is now Diabat beach (about 3 miles south of Essaoura, along the beach). Serves tajines etc. Also does camel rides. Address: Diabat
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Café/gelateria on Place Moulay Hassan. Good for Italian coffee (including decaffinated) and a range of icecreams. Also offers a limited breakfast menu (or just order coffee and have a take-away from Patisserie Driss, followed by juice from the kiosk by the harbour). Open 07:30 – 22:00 daily. Address: 25 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: +212 (0) 63 57 19 28 Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for coffee), Time Out, Lonely Planet, Rough Guide
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patisserie DRISS Patisserie founded in 1925. Serves croissants, tarts and cakes which can be eaten with coffee in the small sheltered courtyard, one of two picture-lined rooms or taken to one of the cafés on Place Moulay Hassan. Also does breakfast, including omelettes and pastilla (if ordered in advance). Address: 10 Rue El Hajal Cost: Breakfast: 19 - 30 DH, pastilla 70 – 170 DH for 2 people Recommended by: Time Out, Lonely Planet and Rough Guide
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‘Idiosyncratic cool’ is Time Out’s perfect description of the interior of this stylish first floor restaurant which the young owner has decorated with eclectic finds from Moroccan flea markets. Excellent and innovative Italian/Moroccan food includes home-made pasta, pumpkin gnocchi and camel tajine. Good selection of speciality teas and juices. Cosy fire in winter; roof terrace in summer. Open 12:00 – 15:00 and 19:30 – 01:00. Closes for 3 days at the start of each month for staff holidays. Address: 1 Rue d’Agadir Essaouira – Maroc Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 21 03 Website: www.elizir.com Cost: One course: 100 - 130 DH, 3 courses: 220 – 275 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for innovative food and décor) and Time Out
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ESSALAM
Popular little terrace restaurant with small terrace overlooking Place Moulay Hassan. Budget set meals: soup or salad, then omelette, fish, couscous or tajine and dessert. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 55 48 Cost: Breakfast: 20 DH, 3 courses: about 40 DH Recommended by: Rough Guide
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Former surf-shack recently turned into a smart new bistro-style café with terrace overlooking the beach. French and Moroccan cuisine plus seafood. Good for breakfast (good value) or lunch in the sun whilst watching watersports (equipment hire and lessons available next door). Open 08:00 – 23:00 daily. Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: +212 (0) 2447 50 08 Cost: Breakfast: 30 – 35 DH, One course: 40 – 210 DH, 3 courses: 135 - 380 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for breakfast or lunch by the beach) and Time Out
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First floor restaurant well known for good value inventive Moroccan cooking. Open 12:30 – 14:30 and 18:30 – 23:00 except Mondays. Address: 27 Rue Abdessalam Lebadi Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 36 55 Cost: One course: 30 – 55 DH, 3 courses: 100 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good value Moroccan food), Time Out and Lonely Planet
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les FILLES Underneath Hotel Sahara. Mainly snacks (burgers, panini, crêpes) which can be eaten inside or on the lawn overlooking Place Mechouar. Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Tel: +212 (0) 65 15 93 98 Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH, One course: 25 – 40 DH, 3 courses: 8 – 110 DH
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café DE FRANCE
One of the oldest cafés on Place Moulay Hassan, founded in 1917. Does not do food at lunchtime. Limited breakfast menu. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Cost: Breakfast: 20 DH
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French-run café and tea room with 2 long banquettes on opposite walls and 8 tiny tables in between, plus two tables in the road outside. Françoise serves a simple menu of sweet and savoury tarts, crêpes and soup. Address: 1 Rue Hoummam El Fatouaki Tel: +212 (0) 68 16 40 87 Cost: One course: 16 – 65 DH, 3 courses: 90 – 105 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for a light lunch) and Lonely Planet
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les GARGOTTES (GRILLED SEAFOOD STALLS) Choose from displays of freshly caught seafood then have it weighed, priced, cooked over charcoal and served with a baguette, possibly chips (and, if you have a strong constitution, a tasty salad). One of the few places in Essaouira where you will be hassled as stallholders compete for your custom, but once you have chosen your stall there is no haggling as prices per kg are fixed - see board at the entrance. If you want a cheap meal select your fish with care or specify the maximum price that you are prepared to pay. Open 11:00 – 16:00 daily. Address: Le Port d'Essaouira Cost: One course: e.g. Sardines: 10 DH each, mixture: 60 DH, Lobster: 400 DH per kilo Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for very fresh seafood), Time Out, Lonely Planet and Rough Guide
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Small café/pizzeria in the heart of the medina. Good for people-watching from outside tables which catch the sun at breakfast time. Simple menu of salads, pizza and pasta. Also does take-aways. Address: On the corner of Rue Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdelah and Rue Laâlouj Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH, One course: 20 - 50 DH, 3 courses: 55 - 115 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for breakfast)
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le GRAND LARGE
Atmospheric little tea salon and restaurant with exposed stone walls and arches. Serves fish, pizza, tajines and couscous. Sometimes has live music. Address: 2 Rue Oum Rabia Tel: + 212 (0) 24 47 28 66 Website: www.riadlegrandlarge.com Cost: One course: about 80 DH
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Upmarket restaurant on the ground floor of the smartest hotel in town with décor combining riad, colonial and European country house. Cocktails are served in the subtly-lit panelled bar accompanied by nibbles such as sushi or tzatziki with crudités. The menu is modern international cuisine with subtle Moroccan touches. Cooking is of a very high standard with subtle blending of flavours and excellent presentation. The hotel also has a pleasant café/bar by the roof-top pool (the pool is not open to non-residents) where you can get salads, sandwiches, grills, ice-cream and drinks (e.g beer 60 DH). Open: Main restaurant 19:30 – 22:00, Rooftop café 12:30 – 16:30 Address: 2 Rue Ibn Batouta, Bab Marrakech Tel: +212 (0) 24 78 34 34 Website: www.heure-bleue.com Cost (Main restaurant): One course: 171 – 285 DH, 3 courses: 490 – 800 DH Cost (Rooftop café): One course: 155- 265 DH, 3 courses: 405 – 555 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good food and a bit of luxury)
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l’HORLOGE
Outside tables in a small leafy square surrounded by a display of Moroccan lamps and rugs from nearby shops. Simple menu consisting of tajines, couscous and omelettes. Service can be unenthusiastic but the the Malian music from the CD shop next door is very atmospheric. Address: Place Chefchaouni Cost: Breakfast: 15 – 25 DH, One course: 10 – 60 DH Recommended by: Lonely Planet
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Friendly little café with outside tables in the peaceful former grain market. Serves interesting salads, grills, good fruit juices and a choice of breakfast dishes, such as M’smen – a thick crispy Moroccan pancake, rather like a cross between a crêpe and an Indian paratha. Address: Place Marché aux Grains Cost: Breakfast: about 30 DH, One course: 28 – 47 DH, Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for breakfast)
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le JOLI COIN
Popular little café and take-away just round the corner from Place Moulay Hassan Specialises in take-away pizza, kebabs and sandwiches. Address: 21 Rue El Hajjali Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 37 94 Cost: One course: 10 – 40 DH
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el KHAIMA
French/Moroccan food served in a large Moroccan tent (El Khaima means The Tent), the building behind it or outside in the square. Address: Place Chrib Attay (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 60 52 Cost: One course: about 65 DH
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al KHANSAA
Riad recently restored by an artistic Moroccan family with unnusual and eclectic taste. The dining area is dominated by a unique fountain sculpture and fantasy fireplace. Simple set menus with a limited choice of mainly Moroccan food. Open every day until 23:00. Address: 60-62 Rue Touahen Tel: + 212 (0) 24 47 66 17 Website: www.hotelriad-alkhansaa.com Cost: 3 courses: 100 - 150 DH
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Surprising oasis 8 km to the south of Essaouira in an unpreposessing roadside location next to a shop selling cane and palm rope furniture. Has a lovely courtyard and excellent French/Moroccan cuisine and seafood. Closed on Monday. Address: Rue d’Agadir Ghazoua Tel: +212 (0) 66 25 21 23 Cost: One course: about 80 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good food in a lovely setting)
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Very popular little restaurant among the carpet shops between Place Moulay Hassan and Place Chefchaouni. Serves good value Moroccan food, crêpes, omelettes and fish. Banquette seating with low tables, a relaxed atmosphere and effcient service. Turnaround is rapid so it is often worth waiting for a table to became available (but not so good if you want o make an evening of it). Address: 4 bis Rue El Hajjali Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 46 43 Cost: One course: 10 – 74 DH, 3 courses: 28 - 118 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good value Moroccan food) and Rough Guide
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LALLA MIRA Bright yellow restaurant on the ground floor of a German-run hotel which is attached to the oldest hammam in town. Serves organic food from the hotel’s own farm. Booking essential for non-residents. Address: 14 Rue d’Algerie Tel: +212 (0) 44 47 50 46 Website: www.lallamira.ma
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LAWAMA Clifftop café/restaurant attached to windsurf camp out of town, to the north. Serves French-Moroccan meals, salads and sandwiches. Address: La Plage, Moulay Bouzerktoun Tel: +212 (0) 61 70 41 11 Cost: One course: 35 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 65 - 170 DH
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Spacious restaurant with baronial style Moroccan décor (deep red tadelakt walls, dark carved wood, exotic lighting). Good Moroccan cuisine and friendly service. Closes part of January Address: 26 Rue Skala Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 36 25 Website: www.lalicorne-essaouira.com Cost: One course: 90 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good Moroccan food and décor)
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dar LOUBANE
On the ground floor of an historic mansion with rather eccentric décor. French-Moroccan food is served in the patio or one of the interior dining rooms. Booking advisable for the Saturday night Gnaoua evenings (audience participation expected!). Open 12:00 – 16:00 and 19:00 – 22:00. Address: 24 Rue de Rif Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 62 96 Cost: One course: 40 – 105 DH, 3 courses: 95 – 235 DH Recommended by: Rough Guide
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riad Al MADINA
Former hippy café transformed into an attractive and colourful hotel. Menu is mainly French/seafood. A peaceful spot in the centre of town for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Address: 9 Rue Attarine Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 59 07 Cost: One course 40 – 140 DH, 3 courses 75 – 265 DH
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MAISON DES ARTISTES
Guesthouse with rather eccentric décor. Lunch or dinner can be served on the terrace overlooking the ocean. Non-residents need to book and choose their food in the morning. Address: 19 Rue Derb Laâlouj Tel: +212 (0) 44 47 57 99 Cost: 3 courses: 200 DH
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Small first-floor trattoria/pizzeria/café. Has five tables in the cosy interior and a few more on the terrace outside. Good Italian food, well presented to a background of lively recorded jazz. Address: Place Chrib Attay Cost: One course: 35 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 90 - 150 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good, no-nonsense Italian food)
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Large café, bar and restaurant on three floors with roof terraces overlooking the ramparts. Serves seafood, Moroccan, French and Italian specialities, including wood-fired pizza. Food is relatively expensive. Often has live music and DJ, sometimes until late. Address: 43 Rue la Skala Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 64 17 Cost: One course 60 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 140 - 320 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for sunset drinks overlooking the ramparts)
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café MARRAKECH (formerly El Fath)
Serves breakfast (including omelettes and crêpes), pizza and Moroccan specialities. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Cost: Breakfast: 20 - 30 DH, One course: 10 - 50 DH, 3 courses: 35 - 105 DH
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Recently refurbished by ‘young, dynamic and enterprising managers’. You can dine throughout the day in the large vaulted dining room or at tables on the lawn outside. Serves a better than average choice of breakfast dishes, lunchtime snacks, tapas and well-presented modern French/Moroccan food in the evenings. DJ or live music at weekends from about 11 pm (on Friday and Saturday, Ganga Fusion often play here after they have finished at Taros). Drinks are available without meals in the restaurant, on the lawn or in The Corner Pub at the back of the restaurant. Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 58 28 Website: www.lemechouar.com Cost: Breakfast: 30 – 40 DH, One course: 25 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 145 - 295 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for breakfast, live music, a late night drink)
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The restaurant, which is situated beneath Palazzo Desdemona, is in a large room with impressive interlinked stone arches. The menu is mainly French/Italian with good seafood specialities. There is a separate bar at the back which can be accessed either through the restaurant or directly via an unmarked door opposite Aprés Cinq restaurant. Sometime has live music on Saturday nights. Address: 3 Avenue Okba Ibn Nafia Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 53 08 Cost: One course: 35 – 220 DH, 3 courses: 95 – 325 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for seafood) and Lonely Planet
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chez MERMOZ
Friendly restaurant where you can eat in the first floor salon, under a ground level canopy or at a couple of tables outside in Place Chrib Attay. Menu includes Moroccan food, omelettes and pasta. Address: 5 Place Chrib Attay (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: +212 (0) 63 49 98 30 Cost: One course: 15 – 70 DH, 3 courses: 40 – 120 DH
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Deceptively spacious restaurant within a building dating back to the 18th century. Bright banquette seating under stone arches. Moroccan cuisine and seafood served by friendly, English-speaking waiters. Address: 7 Place Chefchaouni Tel: +212 (0) 47 49 50 Website: www.lemogadorien.c.la Cost: One course: 15 – 90 DH, 3 courses: 60 – 180 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good value Moroccan food)
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la MOUETTE D’ESSAOUIRA
A sunny café on the harbour side of Place Moulay Hassan. Menu includes soups, salads, pizzas, tajines and couscous. One of the few places in town to serve good decaffienated coffee. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 47 05 Cost: Breakfast: 25 DH, One course: 20 - 50 DH, 3 courses: 45 - 100 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for breakfast)
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New restaurant serving Moroccan food, including some interesting specialities, cooked by a former Villa Maroc chef. Elegant Moroccan décor and friendly service. Address: 6 Rue Mohamed Diouri (off Derb Laalouj) Tel: +212 (0) 24 78 58 54 Cost: One course: 25 – 60 DH, 3 courses: 100 – 140 Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good Moroccan food)
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A healthy 30 minute walk down the beach from the medina. Good for breakfast and relaxed café-style lunches (blackboard specialities, omelettes, paninis, pizzas) and watching, or participating in, watersports (Club Mistral is next door). Since being forced to move to its new site near the sand dunes in 2008 it has lost some of its character but is still the most laid back place to have lunch or a drink – and the walk is lovely. Open 08:30 – 18:00 Address: Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: +212 (0) 24 78 39 34 Website: www.oceanvagabond.com Cost: Breakfast: 20 - 50 DH, One course: 20 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 80 - 240 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for a chilled out lunch by the beach) and Lonely Planet
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Serves good, attractively presented, food in a modern African-themed dining room or in the garden by the heated swimming pool. The lunchtime menu includes interesting salads, omelettes, sandwiches, burgers and tajines; in the evening there is a fuller menu with a French, Moroccan and Asiatic bias. The restaurant is open to non residents from 11:00 to 23:00. Diners having 3 courses can use the pool for free. Address: boulevard Lalla Aïcha Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 92 22 Website: www.oceanvagabond.com Cost: One course: 35 – 155 DH, 3 courses: 100 – 320 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for lunch in the sunshine, and maybe a swim)
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OPERA DU SUD
Café with tables on Place Moulay serving the standard menu of French, Moroccan, Italian and seafood dishes. Address: 12 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 59 25 Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH, One course: 10 - 50 DH, 3 courses: 35 - 90 Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for breakfast)
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A deceptively spacious restaurant with tasteful understated décor and lighting. A simple menu of well presented and tasty modern French/Moroccan food is served with enthusiasm by the French proprietors, Liliana and Lawrence. He speaks good English. Closed Sundays Address: 67 bis, Rue Touahen Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 59 77 or +212 (0) 15 28 71 46 Website: www.dorientetdailleurs.com Cost: One course: 50 – 150 DH, 3 courses: 85 - 310 Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (good food in attractive surroundings)
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Large riad-style hotel. The restaurant is in a vaulted room off the courtyard and has cosy fires in winter. The short menu features mainly international dishes. Drinks can be served on the roof terrace which has good views of the beach. Address: Rue Mohamed Ben Masoud Cost: One course: 100 – 210, 3 courses: 135 – 255 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for sunset drinks on the roof terrace)
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Popular restaurant with intimate Moroccan décor, atmospheric lighting and charming staff. A daily-changing blackboard menu of modern French/Moroccan specialities, including excellent fish dishes is brought to each table. Lighting is just a bit too subtle so it is a good idea to bring a torch to read the menu and wine list. Open 18:30 – 23:00 every day except Monday. Also has a small tapas bar (open from 17:30) where you can get a drink without ordering a full meal. Address: 28 bis Rue Moulay Rachid Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 41 66 Cost: One course: 35 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 185 - 320 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good food in a romantic setting) and Time Out
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Restaurant/café/bar just across the road from the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the medina, above Aigue Marine). Has four main areas: a ‘local’ restaurant, a bar with TV, a ‘tourist’ restaurant and an attractive terrace overlooking the beach (not all are open all of the time). Serves Moroccan food, seafood and snacks. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V
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la PETITE PERLE D’ESSAOUIRA
Basic Moroccan food served at low tables with banquette seating. Address: 2 Rue Hajjali Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 50 50 Cost: 3 courses: 55 - 95 DH Recommended by: Rough Guide
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RAMSESS
French/Moroccan food with a vaguely Egyptian theme, including occasional belly dancing. Adds 5% to the bill for using credit cards. Address: 18 Rue Ibn Roch Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 21 39 Cost: 3 courses: 110 DH |
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la RENCONTRE
Arty restaurant on three floors with lovely views of the ramparts from its terraces. Serves breakfast, wood-fired pizza, Moroccan dishes and seafood. Address: 88 Rue Laâlouj Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 66 17 Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 40 DH, One course: 30 - 130, 3 courses: 90 - 240 DH
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Deceptively large café/restaurant with courtyard and fountain. Good value Moroccan food. Does not serve alcohol but you can take your own. Address: 7 Rue Abdellah Chefchaouni Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 59 73 Cost: 3 courses:: 58 - 98 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for good value Moroccan food)
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Famous wooden boat-like shack overlooking the harbour. You can eat at the small terrace (booking advisable, closed in windy weather) or in the cluttered interior (downstairs is cosiest). No-nonsense cooking, mostly seafood, with decent portions. Open 12:00 – 15:30 and 10:00 – 23:30 daily. Address: Le port d'Essaouira Tel: +212 (0) 24 4762 38 Cost: One course: 40 - 150, 3 courses: 85 - 250 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for the view from the terrace), Time Out and Rough Guide
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SAMARKAND
Centrally situated restaurant/lounge reached via a romantically lit alley. The interior is very modern, with black and white décor and very subtle lighting (take a torch to read the menu or choose before going in from the one at the end of the alley). International cuisine. Belly dancers and loud music. Open every day from 18.00 Address: 9 Rue Abderrahmane Eddakhil Ancienne Tel: + 212 (0) 24 47 66 65 Website: www.riadslotus.com Cost: One course: 90 - 140 DH, 3 courses: 200 - 320 DH
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SICILIA
Friendly pavement café at the top of Place Moulay Hassan. A good place to people-watch over breakfast or with mint tea/coffee and a pastry from Patisserie Driss, which is next door. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Cost: Breakfast: 23 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for breakfast)
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SILVESTRO
A small, popular and unpretentious first-floor Italian restaurant and pizzeria with an open kitchen and friendly service. The choice of Italian wines make a change from the usual, very limited, Moroccan list. Address: 70 Rue Laâlouj Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 35 55 Cost: One course: 60 - 150 DH Recommended by: Time Out
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Cosy restaurant decorated with simple Moroccan craftsmanship. The excellent food is mostly French, Moroccan and seafood. Desserts include a sublime chocolate fondant cake. Booking advisable - and essential on evenings when there is live music (mainly Sunday). Closed Saturdays. Address: 15 Rue Ibn Rochd Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 23 96 Cost: One course: 70 - 180 DH, 3 courses: 105 - 360 Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for the food and the décor)
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Large modern hotel with hammam/spa and swimming pool. French cooking. Address: Avenue/Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 90 00 Website: www.sofitel.com Cost: One course: 90 – 220 DH, 3 courses: 250 – 510 DH
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SURFING EN K
Cheery no-nonsense little café in the lane behind El Khaima (the tent). Food is cooked on the ground floor and served in the first floor salon or on the tiny yellow and blue tiled terrace. Serves pizza, sandwiches, panini, burgers, salads, chawarma and grills. Address: 4 Rue Zayane Cost: One course 15 – 50 DH
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Café, bar, restaurant, art gallery, shop and library just off the main square. The trendy rooftop café/bar is great for idyllic lunches, post dinner drinks and people-watching. Dinner (superbly cooked and presented international cuisine with a Moroccan twist) is mostly downstairs in the library cum art gallery. There is live music in the bar every night (usually featuring the excellent Ganga Fusion on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings) until about 22:30. Accepts credit cards above 300 DH. Open 11:00 – 16:00 and again from 18:00 – 24:00. Closed Sundays and part of January. Address: 2 Rue Skala (just off Place Moulay Hassan) Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 64 07 Website: www.taroscafe.com Cost: One course: 70 - 160 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for lunch on the terrace or dinner in the library, pre-dinner drinks, after-dinner drinks, live music and style), time Out and Lonely Planet
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TINFIT CAFÉ/PIZZERIA
Small café with sunny outside tables amongst the lamps and carpet sellers in Place Chefchaouni. Serves salads, omelettes, pizza and pasta. Address: Place Chefchaouni Cost: One course: 15 - 40 DH, 3 courses: 45 - 90
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Bohemian style café/restaurant with intimate seating areas on several levels. Serves vegetarian wholefoods including miso soup, buckwheat pancakes, omelettes and a range of juices. Very helpful and friendly staff. Free internet access and WiFi. Sometimes shows English language films (starting after dark) during peak season. Open 10:00- 23:00 every day except Friday. Address: 56 Rue Touahen Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 63 71 Website: www.latriskalla.skyrock.com Cost: One course: 10 - 40 DH, 3 courses: 60 - 85 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for vegetarian food and idiosyncratic décor)
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les TROIS PORTES
Colourful little no-frills pizza and pasta restaurant on two floors. Address: Rue Attarine Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 35 53 Cost: Breakfast: 5 – 20 DH, One course: 15 – 60 DH, 3 courses: 85 – 128 DH Recommended by: Lonely Planet
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An authentic, down to earth, local drinking den that dates back to the late 1800's. To find it, enter the cul-de-sac behind Le Mechouar (look for the barrow selling cigarettes and snacks outside). Not recommended for the faint hearted or people who hate cigarette smoke but if you want real local atmosphere and a break from tourists this is the place to go. Open 11:00 – 23:30 daily. Address: Rue Mohammed El Ayachi Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for local atmosphere) and Time Out
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Villa Maroc set an unstoppable trend in the mid 1990's by becoming the first Moroccan riad to be turned into a boutique hotel. The roof terrace has panoramic views and is a great place for a drink at sunset. In the evening you can drink in the cosy bar with its roaring fire and eat good Moroccan food in a number of intimate alcoves. Non residents need to book in advance and choose their food in the morning before the chef goes to the souk. Address: 10 Rue Abdellah Ben Yassin Tel: +212 (0) 44 47 61 47 Website: www.villa-maroc.com Cost: 3 courses: 200 DH Recommended by: Chez Rebecca (for sunset drinks on the terrace or by the fire and good Moroccan food)
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WOKWOK
Trendy little café specialising in pizza, pasta, salads, fresh fruit juices – and teeshirts! You can sit outside overlooking Place Mechouar (provided it isn’t windy) or in the tiny interior. Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Cost: Breakfast 29 DH, One course: 22 - 75 DH, 60 - 170 DH
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el YAKOUT
One of the larger restaurants in town, reached down a pretty plant-lined alleyway. Attractive décor (brick arches, interesting tiles, Maroccan salon). French/Moroccan food. Address: 14 Med El Ayachi Tel: +212 (0) 24 47 62 49 Cost: One course: about 60 DH, 3 courses: 80 - 120 DH
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ZERDA MOGADOR
A cheery bunch of women produce Moroccan home cooking (including some interesting salads), plus omelettes, from a little kitchen which is on view to diners. The simple décor features cream brickwork, banquettes and red fabrics. Address: 6 Rue Ahmed Baba Soudany Tel: +212 (0) 24 78 56 42 Cost: One course: 13 – 75 DH, 3 courses, 50 – 135 DH
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Summary of Chez Rebecca’s recommendations
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Breakfast Cafés on Place Moulay Hassan
Coffee
Tea
Home made cakes
Lunch in the sunshine Les Gargottes (Grilled Seafood Stalls)
Lunch indoors
Lunch out of town
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Good value dinner
Stylish/romantic dinner
Moroccan/boho décor
Dinner with a view
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Moroccan specialities
Italian
Tapas
Good for vegetarians
Pre-dinner drinks with a view Ocean Vagabond café (until 18:00) Riad/Dar l’Oussia roof terrace
After dinner drinks
Live music |
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