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Restaurants, cafés and bars in Essaouira ...
Essaouira is full of characterful restaurants serving good, freshly cooked, food in interesting surroundings and you should find something to suit most tastes and budgets within 10 minutes walk of your accommodation. The restaurants are generally clean with good standards of hygiene and service is normally excellent. As many of them are small and have weekly and annual closures it is best to book in advance if you are keen to try a particular place. Please note that most restaurants do not accept credit cards – even if they have a sign saying that they do! Apart from the outdoor cafés which line Place Moulay Hassan, and the more traditional or budget restaurants, most restaurants serve alcohol, though the choice in most places is limited. Moroccan wines come in red, white, rosé and 'gris' (a sort of dark rosé) and range from drinkable to quite good The local ‘Mogador’ wines from the nearby Val d'Argan Vineyard are among the best in Morocco, though they are relatively expensive and not often offered on wine lists.
Further down this page you will find descriptions of just about every named restaurant, café and bar in town, together with recommendations based on a number of sources, including word of mouth, the web, guide books and our personal experience. First, here is a summary of our personal favourites (the ones we go back to time and time again), plus others which we and our guests also enjoy. The locations of these are marked on our map and clicking on the entry will take you to the description in the main table. For a copy of the full list in printable form, click here.
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Our favourites |
We also like |
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Breakfast: |
Place Marché aux Grains Place Moulay Hassan |
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Lunch: |
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Dinner: |
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Drinks: |
Ocean Vagabond Beach Café (until 18:00) |
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Music: |
Taros roof terrace (until 22:30)
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Key to symbols in the listings which follow:
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= Serves breakfast
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Serves tea, coffee and soft drinks
= Serves hot meals
= Does takeaways
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= Serves alcohol with meals 
= Serves Alcohol without meals 
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Bring your own alcohol welcome
Click on photos to enlarge
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AFTASS
Modest café on Place Moulay Hassan serving the standard menu of French, Moroccan, Italian and seafood dishes. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Cost: Breakfast: 25 DH, One course: 10 – 45 DH, 3 courses 40 – 60 DH (March 2009) |
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The middle café of a group of three with outside seating in the peaceful former Grain Market. Serves good breakfasts, juices and lunches including salads, grills, omelettes, sandwiches and tajines. Address: 222 Place Marché aux Grains Cost: Breakfast: 24 – 35 DH, One course: 24 – 40 DH (March 2010)
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AIGUE MARINE
Modern restaurant/pub/tapas bar just across the road from the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the medina - beneath La Petite Algue and next door to Casa Bella). You can eat in the subtly-lit main restaurant, at counters overlooking the sea or outside. Specialities include chi’ hiwates (Moroccan tapas), couscous royale (Friday only) and mechoui (barbecued marinated lamb) to order. Wines are relatively expensive and not all bottles (or dishes) on the list may be available. Has live music on Friday and Saturday from about 23:00 onwards. Address: 62 Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 48 28 Website: www.aiguemarine.ma Cost: One course: 40 – 250 DH, tapas: 15 – 70 DH, 3 courses: 110 – 400 DH (March 2009) |
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restaurant ALI Basic eatery on first floor gallery overlooking Place Chrib Attay (the one with the tent). Serves omelettes (including Berber), salads, fish, tajines and couscous. Address: Place Chrib Attay (off Rue Laâlouj) Cost: One course: 10 – 30 DH, 3 courses: 35 – 155 DH (April 2008)
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One of the most popular little restaurants in town, Les Alizés serves hearty portions of delicious Moroccan home cooking in a cosy, candlelit room. The short 3-course menu is good value, as is the wine, and the service is relaxed, friendly and efficient. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Booking is advisable in the evening which, when busy, has two sittings – about 19:30 and 21:30. Note: not to be confused with the Atlas Hotel’s Alizés international restaurant. Address: 26 Rue Skala Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 68 19 Cost: 3 courses: 149 DH (March 2010) Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Lonely Planet 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010 |
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APRES CINQ
This chic restaurant/bar attached to the Madada Mogador Hotel has warm stone arches, modern purple and pink décor with giant lampshades (but subtle lighting!) and a lovely fireplace. The menu is mainly modern European with some oriental touches. Open from 12:00 to 23:00. Happy hour 17:00 – 19:00. Closed on Tuesdays. Address: 7 Rue Youssef El Fassi Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 33 49 Cost: One course: 60 - 160 DH, 3 courses: 230 - 315 DH (January 2010) Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2007, Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010
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l'ARBRE BLEU  Atmospheric little art gallery nestling just inside the medina's wall close to its eastern bastion. You can have tea and cakes in the colourful interior surrounded by a good range of artwork chosen or painted by the welcoming owner, French artist Monique Favière, The surrounding Chbanat district, which is off the beaten tourist track, is well worth a leisurely exploration. Open Monday - Saturday 10:00 - 13:00 and 15:00 - 19:00. Address: 233 Rue Chbanat Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 78 57 39 42 Website: www.moniquefaviere.com |
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les ARCADES
No-nonsense candlelit little place with low banquette seating from where you can watch locals promenading along the main street while you eat. Menu includes Moroccan dishes, fish, pizza, pasta and omelettes. Address: Avenue de l’Istiqal Cost: Breakfast: 10 – 25 DH, One course: 15 – 65 DH, 3 courses: 60 – 110 (June 2008) |
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les ARCADES DE MOGADOR
Simple café in the garden outside Hotel Sahara (next to Le Mechouar). Serves snacks, seafood, Moroccan and Italian dishes. Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 61 93 95 71 Cost: One course: 10 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 50 – 125 (November 2009)
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Café des ARTS
Deceptively attractive candelit stairs lead to tiny first and second floor dining areas with rather odd décor, food and service. Address: Avenue de l’Istiqlal Cost: One course: 12 – 85 DH, 3 courses: 47 – 145 (March 2009) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009 |
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ATLAS HOTEL
Large modern hotel opposite the beach about 20 minutes walk from the medina. Has three restaurants: Le Sept (by the beach - see separate enty), Les Alizés and Le Safran. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V - les ALIZÉS (ATLAS HOTEL) Not to be confused with the medina’s lovely little Les Alizés de Mogador, this is an upmarket restaurant serving international cuisine. Cost: 3 courses: 70 - 180 DH, 3 courses: 240 - 370 DH per person (March 2009) - le SAFRAN Serves Moroccan cuisine in upmarket surroundings. Cost: 3 courses: 250 - 350 DH per person (March 2009)
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BAB LAACHOUR
Café/restaurant with nicely situated roof terrace overlooking Place Moulay Hassan and the sea. Basic cooking includes Italian and Moroccan dishes, seafood, omelettes, salads and grills. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 66 70 Cost: One course: 20 - 400 DH, 3 courses: 45 – 460 DH (April 2009)
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dar BABA First floor restaurant serving simple Italian food. Address: 2 Rue de Marrakech Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 68 09 Cost: One course: 35 DH, 3 courses: 105 – 165 DH (June 2008) Recommended by: Michelin 2007
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café de la BAIE
Address: Boulevard d Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 40 76 Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH, One course: 25 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 130 DH (March 2010)
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Simple local drinking den attached to Chalet de la Plage. Locals tend to congregate inside whilst backpackers gather at sunset on the small terrace overlooking the beach. Open until 20:00. Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V (on the south side of Chalet de La Plage) Recommended by: Time Out 2008
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Courtyard restaurant with shabby-chic décor, a huge fig tree and atmospheric music. The courtyard is a good place to have lunch on a sunny day and is nice and sheltered when it is windy. In the evening there is usually a roaring fire in the restaurant proper. Food is mainly Moroccan/French. Address: 113 Rue Mohamed al Qorry Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 35 61 Cost: One course: 30 – 100 DH, Three courses: 105 - 200 DH (May 2009) |
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BELDY
Berber restaurant serving a good range of tajines, couscous and pastilla as well as set menus. No alcohol but you can bring your own. Open every day. Address: 6 Rue Ibn Toumerte Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 67 12 Cost: One course: 15 - 95 DH, 3 courses: 85 – 150 (March 2010) Recommended by: Routard 2010 |
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BEN MOSTAFA
Pavement café on Place Moulay Hassan. Serves pizza, pasta, seafood, Moroccan dishes, omelettes and salads. Address: 20 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 13 11 70 20 Cost: Breakfast: 25 – 40 DH, One course: 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses 50 - 150 (March 2010) |
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pâtisserie
la BIENVENU
Elegant little pâtisserie/delicatessen which has a few interior tables (including a cosy salon area) where you can have tea or coffee with your gateaux. Also serves breakfast with a better than usual choice of dishes. Address: 7 Rue Abdelaziz El Fachtali (Chourej) Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 12 01 95 80/0 (0 212) 6 77 54 01 19 Cost: Breakfast: 25 – 35 DH (March 2010) |
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Small French-run café - one of a group of three with outside seating in the peaceful former Grain Market. A huge selection of teas, infusions and coffees (including decaffeinated), interesting fruit and vegetable cocktails, snacks and icecream are produced in a tiny kiosk and served at tables outside in the square. Breakfast is a cut above the average with honey, argan oil and home-made preserves and Moroccan bread (raïfs). Lunch is a daily-changing menu of light and tasty dishes such as bruschetta with tapenade and goats cheese. Closed Sundays. Address: Place Marché aux Grains Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 68 Website: www.bonheurdesdames-essaouira.com Cost: Breakfast: 35 DH, Brunch: 85, One course: 20 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 70 – 205 DH (November 2009) Recommended by: Routard 2010
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One of several little cafés with outside tables in the peaceful former grain market. Serves breakfast with more choice than most, including Moroccan specialities such as amlou (almond, honey and argan oil paste), M’smen (flaky pancakes) and crêpes. At lunchtime there are snacks such as omelettes, salads, grills and tajines. Address: Place Marché aux Grains Cost: Breakfast: 23 - 40 DH, One course: 20 - 60 (November 2009)
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Friendly little English-run café with a vaguely Mexican bias. Vegetarians are well catered for (Steve was a veggie before he opened the café) but there are also plenty of meat dishes as well as excellent omelettes. Sharon bakes the bread and excellent English-style cakes daily. They also do take-aways. Open 12:00 – about 20:00 every day except Monday. Sometimes closes in January/February. Address: 66 Rue Boutouil Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 45 15 Cost: One course: 40 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 95 - 135 DH (November 2009) Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Footprint Africa 2009 |
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Contemporary Italian/Moroccan restaurant just across the road from the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the medina – next door to La Petite Algue). Both the décor and the food are light, fresh and modern. Also has a few tables outside facing the beach. Open for coffee and meals 12.00 to 23.00 every day except Monday. Address: 60 Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 61 47 55 70 Cost: Breakfast: 50 – 70 DH, One course: 50 - 160 DH, 3 courses: 160 - 300 DH (November 2008) Recommended by: Routard 2010
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Large tapas bar/restaurant in a prime location on Place Moulay Hassan. It is worth a visit just for the elaborate interior décor which includes a wealth of traditional techniques offset by modern furniture. Multilingual waiters serve full meals (Spanish/seafood), good tapas and drinks. You can also get drinks and tapas on the modern roof terrace (The Pink Garden) which has amazing views and live music most evenings. Open 12:00 – 00:00 except Tuesdays. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 00 212 (0) 5 24 78 31 05 Cost: One course: 20 - 160 DH, 3 courses: 75 – 380 (March 2010) Recommended by: Routard 2010 |
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CAVERNE ALI BABA Deceptively spacious restaurant (and hotel) at the end of an alley which doubles as a showroom for for the plate shop next door. Food is Moroccan, Italian, fish and omelettes. Address: 29 Avenue de l’Istiqal Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 53 54 Cost: One course, 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 155 DH (June 2008)
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CHALET DE LA PLAGE/CHEZ JEANNOT Long established (1924) and beautifully situated restaurant with a shady terrace jutting out over the beach (which is floodlit at night). Specialises in seafood. Gets busy at lunchtime and seats on the terrace go quickly so it is best to book if you want to sit there. Closed Sunday evening and Monday lunchtime. Wine list includes some local specialities. Also has an open-air café – see below. Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 72 Cost: One course: 45 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 125 - 305 DH (March 2009) Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007
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On the medina side of Chalet de la Plage restaurant is an open terrace which, on calm days, is a good place for drinks. There is no menu but you can request a limited range of dishes for breakfast (and sometimes lunch). The view is great! Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 72 Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH (January 2010
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les CHANDELIERS
Popular restaurant opposite the museum serving standard French, Moroccan, Italian and seafood. Has a lounge/bar upstairs. Address: 14 Rue Laâlouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 58 27 Cost: One course: 50 – 180 DH, 3 courses: 95 – 355 DH (November 2008) Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2007 |
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COIN DES ARTISTES, riad SIDI MAGDOUL
Rather esoteric little arts café on the ground floor of a French-run hotel down a covered alleyway which links the medina’s two main shopping streets. Has exhibitions and, in the evenings, a simple menu accompanied by a live music or other entertainment such as acrobats, or readings from French literature. Open 12:00 – 22:00 every day except Monday; evening entertainment from 20:30. Address: Rue Sidi Abdessamih Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 70 24 69 51 Website: www.lecoineessaouira.com (and Facebook) Cost: One course: 25 – 70 DH, 3 courses: 95 DH (November 2009)
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le COQUILLAGE/RESTAURANT DU PORT
Large restaurant with terrace overlooking the beach. Popular with coach parties. Address: Le Port d'Essaouira Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 66 55 Cost: One course: 60 – 230 DH, 3 courses: 115 - 380 DH (January 2007) |
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the CORNER PUB Trendy bar at the back of Le Mechouar restaurant. MTV, loud music and lighting effects. Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 58 28
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COTÉ PLAGE
Next to the beach opposite Sofitel, by which it is owned. Continental menu with some good seafood dishes or barbecue on Sundays. Glass panels protect the outside terrace from wind. Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 90 00 Cost: One course: 75 - 195 DH, 3 courses: 235 – 435 (November 2008) Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Lonely Planet 2007, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010 |
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Cheerful little crêperie where you can eat at pine tables in the yellow interior or outside facing Place Chrib Attay (the one with the tent). Serves a good range of savoury and sweet crêpes and bolées (pottery bowls) of cider (but no other alcohol). Open 12:00 – 15:00 and 19:00 – 22:00 except Fridays. Address: Rue Laâlouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 30 96 Cost: Crêpes: 20 – 60 DH, ½ jug of cider (Brevage de pommes) 55 DH (November 2008) Recommended by: Routard 2010
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DAR JEELING
Basic café with outside tables on a sheltered part of Place Chrib Attay/El Khaima (the one with the tent). Serves breakfast, snacks, crêpes etc. Address: 22 Place Chrib Attay Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 66 10 10 32 Cost: One course: 40 - 80 DH, Three courses: 45 - 70 DH (March 2010) |
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le DAUPHIN
Simple little down a covered alleyway which links the medina’s two main shopping streets. Décor is fairly basic but the Moroccan home cooking is sound. Address: Rue Sidi Abdessamih Cost: One course: 15 - 70 DH, Three courses: 50 – 120 DH (April 2009) Recommended by: Routard 2010 |
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la DÉCOUVERTE Tiny French-run restaurant with just six tables inside and two outside. Serves a simple menu of mainly Moroccan dishes with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Daily specialities such as royal couscous with camel meat are advertised on a blackboard at the end of the lane. Also has vegetarian specialities. Desserts might include lemon meringue pie or Moroccan pastries. Open 10 am to 10 pm every day except Saturday. Usually closes in January. Address: 8 bis Rue Houmman el Fatouki Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 31 58 Website: www.essaouira-ladecouverte.com Cost: One course: 10 – 130 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 185 DH (March 2010) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009 |
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DIABAT Café
Tiny brightly-painted ‘hippy’ café with tables overlooking the building site which is now Diabat beach (about 3 miles south of Essaoura, along the beach). Serves tajines etc. Can also organise camel rides. Address: Diabat
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gelateria DOLCE FREDDO
Café/gelateria on Place Moulay Hassan. Good for Italian coffee (including decaffinated) and a range of icecreams. Also offers a limited breakfast menu (or just order coffee and have a take-away from Patisserie Driss, followed by a 5 DH juice from the kiosk by the harbour). Open 07:30 – 22:00 daily. Address: 25 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 63 57 19 28 Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Lonely Planet 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Footprint Africa 2009 |
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Patisserie founded in 1925. Serves croissants, tarts and cakes which can be eaten with coffee in the small sheltered courtyard, one of two picture-lined rooms or taken to one of the cafés on Place Moulay Hassan. Breakfast (popular with locals), which includes omelettes and crêpes, can be eaten in or taken away. Also does pastilla (must be ordered in advance) and pizza. Address: 10 Rue El Hajal Cost: Breakfast: 19 - 30 DH, pastilla 150 – 270 DH (2 - 6 people), pizza: 70 – 220 DH (2 – 8 people) (March 2010)Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Lonely Planet 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010 |
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EARTH CAFÉ MARRAKECH
Brightly coloured vegetarian café with inside and outside seating. Serves a limited number of rather similar dishes (e.g. stuffed filo pastry, spring rolls) at Marrakech prices. Address: Place Chrib Attai (Place El Khaima) Cost: One course: 60 DH (November 2009)
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Address: 1 Rue d’Agadir Essaouira – Maroc Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 21 03 Website: www.elizir.com Cost: One course: 60 - 130 DH, 3 courses: 230 – 255 DH (March 2010) Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Footprint Africa 2009, Routard 2010 |
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ESSALAM Popular little terrace restaurant with small terrace overlooking the lively Place Moulay Hassan. Budget set meals: soup or salad, then omelette, fish, couscous or tajine and dessert. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 55 48 Cost: Breakfast: 15 DH, 3 courses: about 30 - 65 DH (March 2009) Recommended by: Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010 |
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Former surf-shack recently turned into a smart new bistro-style café with terrace overlooking the beach. Good for breakfast or lunch in the sun whilst watching watersports (equipment hire and lessons available next door). Food is mainly French/Moroccan cuisine seafood and grills. Can get very busy at lunch time. Open 08:00 – 23:00 daily. Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 50 08 Cost: Breakfast: 40 DH, One course: 40 – 210 DH, 3 courses: 135 - 380 DH (March 2010) Recommended by: Time Out 2008 |
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First floor restaurant well known for good value Moroccan home cooking. Open 12:30 – 14:30 and 18:30 – 23:00 except Mondays. Address: 27 Rue Abdessalam Lebadi Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 36 55 Cost: One course: 35 – 65 DH, 3 courses: 110 DH (March 2010) Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Lonely Planet 2007, Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010 |
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FOUR (4) SAISONS DE MOGADOR
Narrow restaurant on four floors with a roof terrace providing an interesting view of Avenue de l’Istiqual, the medina’s main thoroughfare. The extensive menu includes pizza (downstairs only), snacks, seafood, pasta and Moroccan specialities. Address: Avenue de l’Istiqal Cost: One course: 8 - 75 DH, 3 courses: 38 – 119 (November 2009)
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café de FRANCE
One of the oldest cafés on Place Moulay Hassan, founded in 1917. Does not do food at lunchtime. Limited breakfast menu. In the evening, serves pizza, pasta, seafood, Moroccan dishes, omelettes and salads . Address: Place Moulay Hassan Cost: Breakfast: 20 DH, One course: 13 – 40 DH (March 2009) |
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French-run café and tea room with 2 long banquettes on opposite walls and 8 tiny tables in between, plus two tables in the road outside. Françoise serves a simple menu of sweet and savoury tarts, crêpes and soup. Address: 1 Rue Hoummam El Fatouaki Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 68 16 40 87 Cost: One course: 16 – 65 DH, 3 courses: 90 – 105 DH (April 2008) Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2007, Michelin 2007 |
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chez les FRERES
Cheerful and laid back little place run by two enthusiastic brothers. Freshly-made pizza, pasta and Moroccan dishes incuding specialities, some of which have to be ordered in advance. You can eat in the restaurant at traditonal banquettes and low tables or take away. Address: 3 Bia, Rue sidi Mgdoul Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 58 25 or 0 (0 212) 6 72 38 88 96 Cost: Breakfast: 20 – 25 DH, One course: 10 - 70 DH, 3 courses: 45 - 120 DH (November 2008) |
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les GARGOTTES (GRILLED SEAFOOD STALLS) An L-shaped group of blue and white stalls where you can choose from displays of freshly-caught seafood then have it expertly cooked over charcoal and simply served with a bread (and, if you have a strong constitution, a tasty salad). Our favourite is the centre stall (Brest Campère, No. 29) – and if you head diagonally across the gardens to reach it you can avoid being hassled by the other stallholders as they compete for your custom. If you are after a cheap lunch beware of inadvertently choosing prime fish (prices per kg are fixed and listed on a board at the end of the row so you may want to check first). For a good value meal specify the maximum price that you are prepared to pay - 60 DH will buy quite a feast. Open 11:00 – 16:00 daily. Address: Le Port d'Essaouira Cost: E.g. Sardines: 3 for 10 DH, mixture: 60 DH, Lobster: 400 DH per kilo (January 2010) Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Lonely Planet 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010 |
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Small café/pizzeria at the heart of the medina. Good for people-watching from outside tables which catch the sun at breakfast time. Simple menu of salads, omelettes, pizza and pasta. Also does take-aways. Address: On the corner of Rue Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdelah and Rue Laâlouj Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH, One course: 20 - 65 DH, 3 courses: 55 - 125 DH (January 2010) |
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le GRAND LARGE
Atmospheric little tea salon and restaurant with exposed stone walls and arches. Serves fish, pizza, tajines and couscous. Address: 2 Rue Oum Rabia Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 47 28 66 Website: www.riadlegrandlarge.com Cost: One course: about 80 DH (November 2007)
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Upmarket restaurant on the ground floor of the smartest hotel in town with décor combining riad, colonial and European country house. Cocktails are served in the subtly-lit panelled piano bar accompanied by nibbles such as sushi or tzatziki with crudités. The menu is modern international cuisine with subtle Moroccan touches. Cooking is of a very high standard with subtle blending of flavours and excellent presentation. The hotel also has a pleasant café/bar by the roof-top pool (the pool is not open to non-residents) where you can get salads, sandwiches, grills, ice-cream and drinks. Open: Main restaurant 19:30 – 22:00, Rooftop café 12:30 – 16:30 Address: 2 Rue Ibn Batouta, Bab Marrakech Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 34 34 Website: www.heure-bleue.com Cost (Main restaurant): One course: 130 – 300 DH, 3 courses: 440 – 815 DH (April 2009) Cost (Rooftop café): One course: 155- 265 DH, 3 courses: 405 – 555 DH (April 2008) Recommended by: Routard 2010 |
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l’HORLOGE
Outside tables in a small leafy square surrounded by a display of Moroccan lamps and rugs from nearby shops. Simple menu consisting of tajines, couscous and omelettes. Service can be unenthusiastic but the the Malian music from the CD shop next door is very atmospheric. Address: Place Chefchaouni Cost: Breakfast: 15 – 25 DH, One course: 10 – 60 DH (January 2008) Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2007, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010 |
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dar al HOUMA
Deceptively spacious candlelit restaurant amongst the carpet sellers between Place Moulay Hassan and Place Chefchaouni. Seafood, omelettes, pasta and Moroccan dishes are served in three fabric-lined rooms with banquette seating. An alternative budget choice if you can’t get a table in the popular Laayoune opposite. Address: 9 Rue El Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 33 87 Cost: One course: 10 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 33 - 153 DH (January 2010) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009 |
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hotel IBIS, SUD & CIE RESTAURANT
Modern hotel restaurant about 40 minutes walk from the medina. The minimalist Sud & Cie restaurant serves Moroccan, Lebanese, Spanish and Italian dishes. The main reason for eating or drinking here is that it entitles you to use the swimming pool. Address: Route de Marrakech Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 92 80 /0 (0 212) 5 24 47 92 81 Cost: One course: 40 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 130 – 220 DH (May 2009) |
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le JOLI COIN Popular little café and take-away just round the corner from Place Moulay Hassan Specialises in take-away pizza, kebabs and sandwiches. Address: 21 Rue El Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 37 94 Cost: One course: 10 – 40 DH (November 2007)
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el KHAIMA
Surprisingly spacious and cosy restaurant based around a Moroccan tent (El Khaima means The Tent) . Multiligual menu (with some amusing translations!) includes salads, omelettes, pizza, seafood and French/Moroccan food Address: Place Chrib Attay (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 60 52 Cost: One course: 20 – 120 DH, 3 courses; 65 - 210 DH (November 2008) |
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al KHANSAA
Riad recently restored by an artistic Moroccan family with unnusual and eclectic taste. The dining area is dominated by a unique fountain sculpture and fantasy fireplace. Simple set menus with a limited choice of mainly Moroccan food. Open every day until 23:00. Address: 60-62 Rue Touahen Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 47 66 17 Website: www.hotelriad-alkhansaa.com Cost: 3 courses: 100 - 150 DH (November 2007) |
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KHAYTARIH
A large modern restaurant just outside the medina in a modern complex next to Hotel des Iles. You can have meals in the spacious, luxuriously-decorated interior or snacks at the comfortable outside terrace. The rather pretentious menu features upmarket French-style dishes, mostly seafood. Address: Complexe Bin Al Aswar Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 47 26 63 Cost: One course: 45 – 300, 3 courses: 175 - 465 DH (November 2009)
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Chez KHERFA
Two entrances lead to this colourful little terrace restaurant overlooking Derb Laalouj on one side and Place Chrib Attay/El Khaima on the other. Simple menu of omletettes, pasta, tajines etc. Address: Derb Laalouj Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 45 DH, One course: 10 - 60 DH, Three courses: 35 - 130 DH (March 2010) |
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Surprising oasis 8 km to the south of Essaouira in an unpreposessing roadside location next to a shop selling cane and palm rope furniture. Has a lovely courtyard and excellent French/Moroccan cuisine and seafood. Closed on Monday. Address: Rue d’Agadir Ghazoua Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 66 25 21 23 Cost: One course: about 80 DH (November 2007) Recommended by: Michelin 2007, Routard 2010
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Very popular little restaurant among the carpet shops between Place Moulay Hassan and Place Chefchaouni. Serves good value Moroccan food, crêpes, omelettes and fish. Banquette seating with low tables, a relaxed atmosphere and effcient service. Turnaround is rapid so it is often worth waiting for a table to became available (but not so good if you want o make an evening of it). Address: 4 bis Rue El Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 46 43 Cost: One course: 14 – 78 DH, 3 courses: 40 - 126 DH (March 2010) Recommended by: Rough Guide 2007, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010 |
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Bright yellow restaurant on the ground floor of a German-run hotel attached to the oldest hammam in town. Serves organic food from the hotel’s own farm inculding vegetarian and fish-based 3-course menus, omelettes and tajines. Open 07:30 – 11:00, 12:00 – 14:30 and 19:00 22:00. Booking advisable for non-residents. Address: 14 Rue d’Algerie Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 50 46 Website: www.lallamira.net Cost: Breakfast: 20 – 60 DH, One course: 6 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 90 - 140 DH (November 2008) |
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Spacious restaurant with baronial style Moroccan décor (deep red tadelakt walls, dark carved wood, exotic lighting). Good Moroccan/French cuisine served by charming waitresses. Closed Mondays and part of January Address: 26 Rue Skala Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 36 25 Website: www.lalicorne-essaouira.com Cost: One course: 45 - 130 DH, 3 courses: 160 – 285 DH (November 2008) Recommended by: Routard 2010
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dar LOUBANE
On the ground floor of an historic mansion with rather eccentric décor. French-Moroccan cuisine and seafood is served in the patio or one of the interior dining rooms. Booking advisable for the Saturday night Gnaoua evenings (audience participation expected!). Open 12:00 – 14:30 and 19:00 – 22:00 except Wednesdays. Address: 24 Rue de Rif Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 62 96 Cost: One course: 45 – 130 DH, 3 courses: 155 – 315 DH (November 2008) Recommended by: Rough Guide 2007, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010 |
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LOUBOU'S
A large modern restaurant/lounge/nightclub just outside the medina in a modern complex next to Hotel des Iles. The tables surround a circular dancefloor with subdued lighting and four screens showing music videos. Wide curving stairs lead to an upstairs bar. Drinks, and the food on the short international menu, are pricey. Has live music every evening from about 23:00. Address: 32 lot Complexe Bin Al Aswar Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 78 48 72 Website: www.loubousessaouira.com Cost: One course: 60 - 175, 3 courses: 235 - 365 DH (November 2009)
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Former hippy café transformed into an attractive and colourful hotel at the heart of the medina. You can eat in the attractive courtyard at the centre of the riad or in the comfortable dining room on two levels. International menu. Address: 9 Rue Attarine Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 07 Cost: One course 40 – 140 DH, 3 courses 130 – 275 DH (April 2009) |
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MAISON DES ARTISTES Guesthouse with rather eccentric décor. Lunch or dinner can be served in the salon or on the terrace overlooking the ocean. Non-residents need to book and choose their food in the morning. Address: 19 Rue Derb Laâlouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 57 99 Website: www.maisondesartistes.com Cost: 3 courses: 190 DH (March 2009)
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MAISON DU SUD
Deceptively spacious restaurant/hotel/art gallery on the main pedestrian street just north of Place Moulay Hassan. A basic 3-course set menu is served in a choice of well-furnished seating areas. Address: Avenue Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdalah Cost: 3 courses: 90 DH (March 2009)
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Small first-floor trattoria/pizzeria/café. Has five tables in the cosy interior and a few more on the terrace outside. Friendly atmosphere and tasty Sicilian style cuisine. Address: 31 Place Chrib Attay Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 68 16 40 69 or 0 (0 212) 6 77 54 24 86 Cost: One course: 20 - 100 DH, 3 courses: 90 - 150 DH (March 2010)
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il MARE
Large café, bar and restaurant on three floors with roof terraces overlooking the ramparts. Serves seafood, Moroccan, French and Italian specialities, including wood-fired pizza. Food is good but relatively expensive. Usually has live music between 20:00 and 23:00, sometimes followed by a DJ. Address: 43 Rue Yamen (Skala) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 64 17 Cost: One course 60 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 140 - 320 DH (November 2008) Website: www.ilmaressaouira.com Recommended by: Routard 2010 |
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café MARRAKECH Serves breakfast (including omelettes and crêpes), Lunch/dinner includes pizza, pasta, seafood, Moroccan dishes, omelettes and salads. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 40 DH, One course: 10 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 40 – 110 DH (January 2010)
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This is probably the most versatile place in town offering everything from breakfast to dinner, late night drinks, shisha pipes and live music. You can dine throughout the day in the large dimly lit dining room or at tables on the lawn outside. Serves breakfast, lunchtime snacks, tapas and an evening menu of well-presented modern French/Moroccan/oriental food, including good tajines. Live music (which can sometimes be very good) may accompany dinner or else begin after 23:00 when the better-off locals come to party. Drinks are available without meals in the restaurant, on the lawn or in The Corner Pub at the back. Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 58 28 Website: www.lemechouar.com Cost: Breakfast: 10 - 35 DH, Lunch: 25 - 165, Dinner (3 courses): 170 - 310 DH (March 2010) |
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Deceptively large riad hotel halfway along a covered alleyway which links the medina’s two main shopping streets. The ground floor bar, which is open to non-residents, has a diverse choice of seating areas with décor ranging from colourful Moroccan to cosy and colonial. Address: 15 Rue Sidi Abdessamih Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 44 47 59 43 Website: www.residenceelmehdi.com
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The restaurant, which is situated beneath Palazzo Desdemona, is in a large room with impressive interlinked stone arches. The menu is mainly Moroccan/French/Italian with good seafood specialities. There is a separate TV bar at the back which can be accessed either through the restaurant or directly via an unmarked door opposite Aprés Cinq restaurant. Address: 3 Avenue Okba Ibn Nafia Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 53 08 Cost: One course: 50 – 220 DH, 3 courses: 145 – 325 DH (November 2009) Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2007, Footprint Africa 2009, Routard 2010
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chez MERMOZ
Friendly restaurant where you can eat in the first floor salon, under a ground level canopy or at a couple of tables outside in Place Chrib Attay. Menu includes Moroccan food, omelettes and pasta. Address: 5 Place Chrib Attay (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 63 49 98 30 Cost: One course: 15 – 70 DH, 3 courses: 40 – 120 DH (November 2008)
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A former Koranic school close to the food souks now converted to a simple little family-run restaurant serving grills, seafood and excellent tajines, plus couscous on Friday/Saturday. Seats about 10 people at low tables, plus an extra four by the entrance. Service is laid-back and friendly. While not everything on the short menu may be available, the ingredients are fresh and the cooking can be very good indeed. Booking recommended (as is the apple tart when it is available!). Address: 26 Rue Jbala Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 55 58 79 61/0 (0 212) 6 73 59 11 48 Cost: One course: 3 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 38 - 105 DH (March 2010)
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café/restaurant MOGADOR (BAR MOG)
Well-run little café on the seafront boulevard with inside and outside eating areas. Popular with locals and tourists alike. Serves breakfast,Moroccan dishes, seafood, snacks and daily speicialities. Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 32 36 Cost: One course: 15 – 180 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 245 DH (November 2009)
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MOGADOR GOURMANDE Little crêperie/fast food café with a logo which has a remarkable similarity to MacDonald’s! Address: Rue El Hajjali Cost: One course: 16 – 42 DH
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le MOGADORIEN
Deceptively spacious restaurant within a building dating back to the 18th century. Bright banquette seating under stone arches. Moroccan cuisine and seafood served by friendly, English-speaking waiters. Address: 7 Place Chefchaouni Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 49 50 or 0 (0 212) 6 61 20 70 57 Website: www.lemogadorien.c.la Cost: One course: 15 – 95 DH, 3 courses: 60 – 185 DH (March 2010) |
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la MOUETTE D’ESSAOUIRA
A sunny café on the harbour side of Place Moulay Hassan. Menu includes juices, soups, salads, pizzas, tajines and couscous. Also does take-away pizza. One of the few places in town to serve good decaffienated coffee. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 47 05 Cost: Breakfast: 25 DH, One course: 20 - 50 DH, 3 courses: 45 - 100 DH (January 2010) |
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dar MOUNIA
Centrally situated hotel with a ground floor restaurant serving a range of Moroccan, French, Italian and seafood dishes. The square room is subtly decorated with an array of metal ceiling lanterns, zelliges and tadelakt. Address: 2 Rue Laalouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 29 88 Cost: One course: 25 - 95 DH, 3 courses: 70 - 200 DH (March 2010) |
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Family-run restaurant serving good Moroccan food, including some interesting specialities as well as a vegetarian set menu. The mixture of Moroccan salads for starter is particularly recommended. Elegant Moroccan décor and friendly service. Address: 6 Rue Mohamed Diouri (off Derb Laalouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 58 54 Cost: One course: 30 – 70 DH, 3 courses: 80 – 160 (January 2010) |
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Le NECTAR
Brightly-decorated restaurant with banquette seating inside or 3 tables outside overlooking El Khaima (the tent). The menu is the usual mix of seafood, Moroccan and Italian dishes. Open 11:00 – 15:00 and 19:00 – 23:00h Address: 14 – 15 Place Chrib Attai/Place El Khaima (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 54 85 Cost: One course: 10 – 95 DH, 3 courses: 40 – 180 DH (November 2009)
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A healthy 30 minute walk down the beach from the medina. Good for breakfast and relaxed café-style lunches (blackboard specialities, omelettes, paninis, pizzas, burgers, chips) and watching, or participating in, watersports (Club Mistral is next door), horse or camel riding. Sunloungers and deckchairs make this a wonderfully laid back place to have lunch or a drink – and the walk is lovely. Open 08:30 – 18:00 daily. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 39 34 Website: www.oceanvagabond.com Cost: Breakfast: 30 - 50 DH, One course: 20 - 110 DH, 3 courses: 48 - 215 DH (November 2009) Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2007, Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010
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Serves good, attractively presented, food in a modern African-themed dining room or in a peaceful garden by the swimming pool. The menu includes interesting salads, omelettes, sandwiches, burgers and tajines. Open to non residents from 11:00 to 23:00. Diners can use the pool for free. Address: boulevard Lalla Aïcha Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 92 22 Website: www.oceanvagabond.com Cost: One course: 35 – 110 DH, 3 courses: 95 – 230 DH, childrens menu: 70 DH (May 2009)
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OPERA DU SUD
Café/restaurant with tables on Place Moulay as well as a relatively smart interior. The menu is the the standard mixture of French, Moroccan, Italian and seafood dishes. Address: 12 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 25 Cost: Breakfast: 20 DH, One course: 15 - 100 DH, 3 courses: 50 - 155 DH (March 2010)
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A deceptively spacious restaurant with tasteful understated décor and lighting. A simple menu of well presented and expertly cooked modern French/Moroccan food is served with enthusiasm by the Swiss/French proprietors, Liliana and Lawrence. The three course set menu is particularly good value. Closed on Saturday. Address: 67 bis, Rue Touahen Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 77 Website: www.dorientetdailleurs.com Cost: One course: 30 – 160 DH, 3 courses: 90 – 325 (March 2010) Recommended by: Routard 2010
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A large riad-syle hotel with ground floor restaurant and separate bar. You can also get drinks on the comfortable roof terrace which has great views of the beach. The elegant vaulted dining room, which has cosy fires in winter, overlooks the tranquil courtyard with its flower-filled fountain. The short menu features mainly international dishes with a slightly oriental influence. There is couscous and gnawa music on Friday evenings. Friendly, efficient service. Address: Rue Mohamed Ben Masoud Cost: One course: 50 - 110, 3 courses: 150 – 340 DH (March 2009) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009
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Le PANORAMIQUE
A healthy 30 minute walk down the beach from the medina this modern café/restaurant is situated in the café/watersports complex which is creeping north from Ocean Vagabond Beach Café. A range of snacks and meals are served in the rather souless interior, the shady terrace or at incongruous brightly-coloured plastic chairs and tables in the garden overlooking the beach. Open 12:00 – 15:00 h and 19:00 - 22:30 h. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 59 56 Cost: Breakfast: 20 - 30 DH, One course: 10 - 140 DH, 3 courses: 60 - 205 DH (November 2009)
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PASSAGE 24 After a 2-year closure, this elegant resturant has reopened with a new menu of Belgian and seafood specialities. An attractive door at the end of a little alleyway leads to the ground floor dining area with tables set around a fountain in the roofed-over courtyard. The walls are tastefully decorated with well-chosen modern paintings (some for sale) and stylish lampshades. Open for lunch and dinner daily except Sunday and sometimes Tuesday. Address: 24 Rue d’Irak Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 33 30 Website: www.passage24.com Cost: One course: 40 - 160 DH, 3 courses: 155 – 390 DH (November 2009)
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Popular restaurant with intimate Moroccan décor, atmospheric lighting and charming staff. A daily-changing blackboard menu of modern French/Moroccan specialities, including excellent fish dishes is brought to each table. Lighting is just a bit too subtle so it is a good idea to bring a torch to read the menu and wine list. Open 18:30 – 23:00 every day except Monday. Also has a small tapas bar (open from 17:30) where you can get a drink without ordering a full meal. Address: 28 bis Rue Moulay Rachid Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 41 66 Cost: Tapas: 35 DH, One course: 35 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 195 - 285 DH (November 2009) Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010 |
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Restaurant/café/bar just across the road from the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the medina, above Aigue Marine). Has four main areas: a ‘local’ restaurant, a bar with TV, a ‘tourist’ restaurant and an attractive terrace overlooking the beach (not all are open all of the time). Serves Moroccan food, seafood and snacks. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V Cost: One course: 30 - 140 DH, 3 courses: 80 - 270 DH (March 2009) |
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la PETITE PERLE D’ESSAOUIRA Basic Moroccan food served at low tables with banquette seating. Address: 2 Rue Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 50 50 Cost: 3 courses: 55 - 95 DH (November 2007) Recommended by: Rough Guide 2007, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010
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RAMSESS
Family-run restaurant serving French/Moroccan food with a vaguely Egyption theme. The two lively sisters who serve both speak excellent English. Address: 18 Rue Ibn Roch Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 21 39 Cost: 3 courses: 125 DH, childrens menu: 70 DH(January 2010)
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la RENCONTRE
Arty restaurant on three floors with lovely views of the ramparts from its terraces. Idiosyncratic décor and service but reliable cooking - breakfast, wood-fired pizza, Moroccan dishes and seafood. Address: 88 Rue Laâlouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 66 17 Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 40 DH, One course: 20 – 80, 3 courses: 75 - 170 DH (May 2009) |
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dar SALTANE
Deceptively large café/restaurant with courtyard and fountain. Good value Moroccan food. Does not serve alcohol but you can take your own. Address: 7 Rue Abdellah Chefchaouni Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 73 Cost: 3 courses:: 58 - 98 DH (November 2007) |
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Famous wooden boat-like building jutting out into the harbour with great views of the fishing fleet. You can eat in the small enclosed terrace (booking advisable), the cosy 1950s style ground floor dining room or the more spacious top floor. No-nonsense cooking, mostly seafood cooked in a variety of ways, with decent-sized portions. Open 12:00 – 15:30 and 10:00 – 23:30 daily. Address: Le port d'Essaouira Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 4762 38 Cost: One course: 25 - 150, 3 courses: 80 - 250 DH (November 2009) Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Rough Guide 2007, Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007 |
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Centrally situated restaurant/cocktail lounge on the ground floor of the upmarket Lotus O Marine hotel not far from Place Moulay Hassan. The interior is very modern, with black and white décor and subtle lighting (take a torch to read the menu or choose before going in from the one at the end of the alley). Good Mediterranean/Moroccan cuisine. Open daily from 18.00 Address: 9 Rue Abderrahmane Eddakhil Ancienne Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 47 66 65 Website: www.riadslotus.com Cost: One course: 60 - 170 DH, 3 courses: 205 - 350 DH (April 2009) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009 , Routard 2010
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le SEVEN (7)
Address: Boulevand Mohammed V Cost: One course: 50 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 145 – 270 DH (March 2009)
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SICILIA
Friendly pavement café at the top of Place Moulay Hassan. A good place to people-watch over breakfast or with mint tea/coffee and a pastry from Patisserie Driss, which is next door. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Cost: Breakfast: 23 DH (November 2007)
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SILVESTRO A small, popular and unpretentious first-floor Italian restaurant and pizzeria with an open kitchen and friendly service. The choice of Italian wines make a change from the usual, very limited, Moroccan list. Address: 70 Rue Laâlouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 35 55 Cost: One course: 40 - 130 DH, 3 courses: 125 - 285 (March 2010) Recommended by: Time Out 2008, Michelin 2007 |
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le SIROCCO
Cosy French-run restaurant decorated in colourful Moroccan style. The characterful French owners serve excellent food - mostly French, Moroccan (including good pastilla) and seafood. Desserts include a sublime chocolate fondant cake. Has live music or other entertainment on at least one evening a week – look for a notice on the blackboard outside. Booking advisable at peak times. Closed Saturdays. Address: 15 Rue Ibn Rochd Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 23 96 or 0 (0 212) 6 61 08 33 72 Cost: One course: 30 - 320 DH, 3 courses: 115 – 540 (March 2010) Recommended by: Michelin 2007, Routard 2010
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SOFITEL THALASSA MOGADOR
Large modern hotel opposite the beach about 10 minutes walk from the medina. You can get drinks at the Mogador Club whisky bar and La Skala bar in the foyer, plus meals at l’Arganier restaurant. See also Côté Plage. Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 90 00 Website: www.sofitel.com Recommended by: Routard 2010 - l’ARGANIER Serves French food in sophisticated surroundings. Cost: One course: 90 – 200 DH, 3 courses: 320 – 515 DH (March 2009) |
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